Day 02 – Arnside to Walney

The bunting was up in Arnside, which obviously meant word of my arrival had got out. Passengers poured off the train as I passed the station on the way out of the village. I briefly thought about jumping on the train to see the viaduct up close. No time for that.  I need to get on.

Out through Sandside to Milnthorpe Bridge. Sandside lives up to its name—mile-wide estuary a cast expanse of sand. A proper Cumbrian morning: bright, blustery, a hint of chill. At the A6, the sign says “Caution busy road” and what looks like an urban painted-white-line cycle lane isn’t. It disappeared on a bend and I experience my first, involuntary shout and gesticulation-inducing close pass of the trip. Then back to calm, climbing gently into Levens where the view opens out.

A cyclist caught me on the hill outside Meathop. We chatted pleasant cycling talk about the day and our bikes. Hers a road bike, because it makes the hills arond here managable. She told me if I was holding her up, I should cycle on. I was pleased to have company for a few miles. she was holding me on that shit cycle up. She got her first road bike more than a decade ago and hasn’t looked back. She’s been cycling for a while. We talked about the benefits of cycling, being out, enjoying the ride and shared stories of how it has helped us keep on top of our mental wellbeing. I said my goodbyes at Grange over Sands. I had spied a cafe.

Two other cyclists arrived at the cafe at the same time. We sat on neighbouring tables and got chatting waiting for our orders (coffee and flapjack for me) to arrive. They are local musicians who play regularly in the pub I’ll be staying at tonight. They strongly suggested I go to Cartmel and they sold it well as an example of a perfect South Cumbrian village. They told me it was up a very steep hill and knowing my route for the day was relatively flat, I wasn’t keen.

Twenty minutes later, I reached Allithwaite and ssaw a sign for Cartmel 1¾ miles. I decided to go for it. The hill wasn’t too bad. Cartmel was lovely. And tiny. The village square is beautiful. I checked out some of the shops and went to the grounds of the priory for a middle of the day stretch.

From Cartmel, the road rose to Bigland Hall—the highest point of the ride. Brake niggles started here and would keep me company for most of the day. From Bigland Hall the view of the Cumbrian fells was jaw-dropping. I could pick out Scafell Pike. The stop was a chance to chat to a drystone waller about mountains, microclimates and the wisdom of checking contour lines before choosing shortcuts.

The descent was fast and joyful, until Greenodd, where the cycle path turned to gravel and I walked to protect the bike until I’d crossed the river.

A big climb at Penny Bridge and another glorious view. I looked back across Morecambe Bay, still tracking the distant power station I first saw yesterday. I’d done 30 miles and felt every one of them.

Onward to Ulverston and Bardsea for a slice of tea loaf (rude not to) and a flat coastal stretch through Aldingham and Rampside. The breeze was with me and it was fabulous riding.

Over the causeway to Roa Island. It was wind-whipped, rust-streaked and oddly beautiful. I was too late for the ferry to Piel Island.

On the final stretch into Barrow along a lovely purpose-built cycleway, the authorities had seen fit to install gates clearly designed by people who want to stop motorcyclists using the path. They were a squeeze for me and would be a struggle for any mountain bike rider.

Barrow was quiet an industrial. I arrived on Walney at the end of the Morecambe Bay Cycleway and rode to the south end of Walney before heading to my accommodation.

Highlights: Conversations, Cartmel detour, Bigland views, Roa Island causeway

Lowlights: That one car near Levens and those ridiculous gates near Barrow

Day 02:  63 miles,  2,479ft gained

Trip total:  125 miles,  3,758ft gained